#Japan #Daiichi Sankyo #Tokyo #MIKIMOTO #IFSCC

Introduction

In a major advancement for skincare research, Daiichi Sankyo Healthcare and Mikimoto Pharmaceutical unveiled their new joint research findings at the 35th International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) World Congress held in Cannes, France from September 15 to 18. Proper hydration is critical for healthy skin, yet previous studies on moisture retention have largely focused on a singular type known as bound water. This type of water binds to natural moisturizing factors within the stratum corneum and shows low volatility, even in dry environments. However, various states of water exist under the umbrella of bound water, complicating the assessment of each state’s role in effective hydration.

This research aims to identify and assess the intermediate water and weakly bound water, both presumed to significantly contribute to skincare effects such as moisturizing, skin texture, and firmness. By developing analytical methods tailored to these water types, the study has not only aimed to quantify these states but also to find ingredients capable of enhancing their presence in cosmetic formulations.

Research Methodology and Findings

The investigation has proven fruitful, applying two novel approaches—Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) and Raman Spectroscopy—to precisely analyze the intermediate and weakly bound water. These newly established methods enable researchers to evaluate the ability of widely used humectants to retain moisture effectively by specifically mapping their capacity to form these particular states of water.

Revolutionary Moisture Analysis Technique

The study introduced an upgraded DSC method, employing ultra-low temperatures as low as -150°C to evaluate the properties of water in cosmetic components. This innovation allows for the qualitative assessment of three distinct water states: unfreezable water (NFW), intermediate water (IW), and free water (FW)—rather than the binary classification of free and bound water commonly referred to in previous assessments.

The analysis determined that trehalose and PCA-Na exhibit substantial capacities for intermediate water retention, surpassing conventional hydrating agents like glycerin by significant margins—trehalose holds 1.5 times and PCA-Na holds twice the amount of intermediate water compared to glycerin.

Key Role of Weakly Bound Water

A second major methodological advancement utilized peak-separation techniques in Raman Spectroscopy to categorize various states of water by their binding strengths. This classification ranged from very strongly bound water to free water, thereby revealing nuances previously overlooked in cosmetic formulations. The assessment highlighted that younger individuals tend to have a higher ratio of weakly bound water, emphasizing its potential importance in effective moisturizing products.

The evaluation identified PCA-Na in high concentrations and trehalose in lower ones as significantly impactful. Subsequent tests, where formulations containing these ingredients were applied to human skin, demonstrated enhanced ratios of weakly bound water, suggesting greater hydration deep within the skin layers.

Future Perspectives

With a reliable framework established for analyzing intermediate and weakly bound water, this research opens up new pathways for skincare product development. The insights gained challenge conventional moisture evaluation practices and propose innovative approaches to enhance skin hydration effectively. The collaborative efforts of Daiichi Sankyo Healthcare and Mikimoto Pharmaceutical aim to bring forth breakthrough skincare products with unprecedented moisture retention capabilities based on these findings.

This work represents a significant leap forward, poised to redefine the standards for moisture retention analysis in the cosmetics industry and improve everyday skincare solutions.

About the Companies

Daiichi Sankyo Healthcare operates under the corporate philosophy of providing medical solutions that cater to diverse healthcare needs, expanding beyond OTC drugs to skincare and oral care sectors. The company operates with a commitment to foster self-care, advocating a healthier lifestyle for all.

Mikimoto Pharmaceutical, a manufacturer rooted in the spirit of the celebrated jewelry brand MIKIMOTO, has shifted from utilizing pearl-derived components to a broader portfolio that includes cosmetics, quasi-drugs, and dietary supplements. They maintain a strong focus on quality and innovation, paving the way for effective and luxurious cosmetic products.