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VTT's Groundbreaking Research on Plant-Based Cosmetic Ingredients

In an era where sustainability meets innovation, the VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland, along with 16 partners across 11 European nations, has made a significant breakthrough in the field of cosmetics. This project, funded by the EU's Horizon 2020 program, represents a monumental step towards the future of skincare products, incorporating plant-based ingredients that not only pledge to be anti-inflammatory but also combat the signs of aging.

The initiative, known as InnCoCells, marks a significant departure from traditional approaches that often spotlight isolated plant compounds. Instead, this project embraces a systematic and comprehensive screening of over 100 plant extracts to uncover their effects on 20 different biomarkers related to skin health. As a result, approximately 25 extracts have been identified as viable candidates for skincare formulations. What sets these extracts apart is their potential to be sourced from sustainably grown plants, cultured in bioreactors, or derived from agricultural by-products, making them not only effective but also environmentally responsible.

The Science Behind the Discovery

Among the most notable findings are extracts from the Cochlearia danica (Danish scurvygrass), Capsicum chinense (tropical pepper), and the hairy roots of Ocimum basilicum (basil). The cell cultures of C. danica stood out in the research, showcasing an impressive array of bioactive compounds known for their anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties. Furthermore, this extract demonstrated potent antimicrobial characteristics that surpassed many existing single-compound ingredients available in the market.

The research also highlighted extracts of C. chinense, which displayed remarkable antimicrobial activity against harmful skin bacteria, including the notorious Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA), while simultaneously protecting skin cells from stress without causing irritation—a common problem with many popular anti-aging agents like retinol and vitamin C.

Meanwhile, basil hairy root extracts exhibited unique properties, showing strong anti-collagenase and anti-hyaluronidase activities without hindering hydration. This balance indicates a promising avenue for addressing skin aging without compromising moisture content.

A Collaborative Effort Toward Sustainable Beauty

Kirsi-Marja Oksman-Caldentey, the coordinator of InnCoCells, notes, “These findings underscore how the partnership between nature and science can lead to the next generation of cosmetic ingredients.” For the first time, there’s a clear pipeline for creating ingredients that combine proven skincare benefits with responsible and scalable production methods.

As global demand for sustainable cosmetics skyrockets, VTT and its collaborators are actively seeking business models to transition these discoveries from the lab to commercial applications. The ultimate goal is to validate these ingredients' efficacy and establish partnerships for production, thus allowing brands to seamlessly integrate these innovations into their formulations.

The Road Ahead

The InnCoCells project, which lasted 4.5 years with a total budget of €7.9 million, amalgamated cutting-edge plant science, biotechnology, and innovative cultivation techniques. These included greenhouse cultivation, aeroponics, and advanced plant cell culture methods aligned with circular economy principles, upcycling agricultural side-streams instead of allowing them to go to waste.

In an exciting comment, Dr. Christophe Carola from MERCK emphasized the importance of international collaboration, stating that the InnCoCells initiative provided an unparalleled opportunity for access to advanced expertise in plant research.

As this groundbreaking research continues to unfold, the implications for the skincare industry are vast, positioning VTT and its partners at the forefront of a movement towards sustainable beauty solutions that prioritize both effectiveness and environmental responsibility. As further developments emerge, consumers can look forward to cleaner, greener, and more effective skincare choices in the near future.